Crombie Ltd were one of the first luxury British brands producing high end apparel and accessories, and their most famous coat, the Crombie, has now become a universal term for describing three-quarter length wool men’s overcoats. The Crombie was particularly fashionable with the Mods of the 1960s, who liked it’s precision tailoring and clean cut image. The Crombie is ideal for the whole minimal/masculine vibe going on this season, and has a pinch of the on-trend 60s about it.
The Crombie was all over the catwalks, and has been noted by fashion editors everywhere for accenting the androgynous look. Naturally, Margaret Howell showed the menswear piece, as did Frankie Morello and Karen Walker. Thrown over shirt and trousers ensembles, or belted at the waist for a feminine twist, it is clear that this is the most versatile coat of the autumn- it’s even got a whole heritage to back it up.
The high street have loads of Crombies on offer, most notably with modern updates, such as leather panels, texture mixes and contrast colour sleeves and lapels. Yet go for a classic Crombie, and it will last longer than just one season. You can always rely on Zara to deliver high-end tailoring at high street prices, and their Crombie coat (top) is a classic design with a really minimalist feel. Very’s charcoal grey coat (bottom) has just a hint of detail with subtle black panels by the pockets. I have it myself, and believe me: it fits like a dream, and with it’s traditional cut it really does look like you’ve borrowed your man’s coat.
Balenciaga was one of the great masters of tailoring, with the cocoon silhouette being one of his stand out designs. It is a shape which blends masculine tailoring with a soft feminine silhouette for, what is still today, a really contemporary look.
Deconstructed Aquascutum blazer, via Tumblr
Can’t help but smile, right? This penguin print shirt by Charlotte Taylor is just the thing to lift your winter wardrobe, and brings a whole new meaning to the idea of festive dressing.
Silk shirt, £210 by Charlotte Taylor at Coggles
Italian born, Central Saint Martin’s graduate Flaminia Saccucci fuses rigid masculine tailoring with the most feminine of floral prints. Her distinctive debut collection has been bought be famed London boutique Browns and she has already been featured in the coolest of magazines, from 1883 to iD. Saccucci has not only won the L’Oreal Professional Young Talent Award, but has moved to Paris to work under Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy.
For her debut collection, what made her stand out from her classmates is her unique and directional use of latex; precision tailoring is a skill in itself, never mind doing it with such an unusual material. The floral screen print is not only a complex technique, but one which also changes your perception of latex. As Saccucci said in a recent interview with 1883 magazine, ‘My main focus was to use latex not in an expressly sexy way, but instead to make it more feminine’. Saccucci says the suits are her favourite pieces in the collection, and I agree: they are minimalist, masculine, as well as outrageously colourful and flowery. Saccucci is an innovative design talent and it’s no surprise she is turning so many heads in the fashion industry.
Photos: Flaminia Saccucci
Ultra-hip Swedish label Acne has collaborated with London based artist Daniel Silver on a stand out capsule collection. Silver spent time in Zimbabwe and South Africa as a child, and his love of African pattern and colour has been brilliantly translated into striking prints which adorn carefully cut trousers, shirts and tees. The white shirt with leopard print panel, dip dyed leather jacket and the patterned cropped trousers (below) are all pieces I love, with their masculine silhouettes updated in a riot of print and colour.
See the rest of the collection here
Model Lindsay Wixson looking great in a patchwork shirt with oversized collar for the new issue of Oyster magazine.